Finishing the GR131 in Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura is the last of the Canary Islands on my list to do the cross island GR131 trail. I did my homework, and most hikers who blog about the route detested significant chunks of this walk – as it goes on tarmac through resorts. Doing a bit more homework yielded some excellent alternative routes around the mountains so I came up with a route that joined the parts of the GR131 I wanted to do and some excellent side hikes. The original route was 150km, mine was 130km but with a lot more ascent

Accommodation in the mountains is a bit tricky, and there is a network of trail shelters in which it is illegal but tolerated to camp, as the locals understand it is impossible to hike across the island without having to wild camp somewhere.

Day 1 – tour of Mt Cardon and then onward to Pajara (18km and 800m of ascent)

I stayed at the premier inn at Gatwick as there is nothing worse than a 4am wake up call. At 5.45 I woke up, had my coffee and breakfast in hand after security at 6.15 and was in the lounge at 6.30 ready to board the 7.15 flight. I was even organised enough to fill up all my water bottles at Gatwick after security. The flight was packed with British package tourists like normal and I suspected I was the only one who didn’t have any accommodation booked for the duration of my stay and was planning on bivouacking where I could

On landing, my only shopping requirement was to get some fuel for my stove (I bought an alcohol stove as there are few stockists of gas canisters on the island), so I got my taxi to stop at the hardware store to buy ‘alcohol de quemar’ and I was set

The nice taxi driver dropped me 50 km from the airport in a deserted parking area near mt Cardon and asked me if I was sure….. and was surprised when I told him I was planning to walk more than 150km to corralejo.

The 7km return trip up the mountain was delightful, with nice views down to La Pared and the ocean. The mountain is a pilgrim route with a lovely cave church at the top.

I returned to Cardon ‘town’ after the mountain hoping the bar I had passed would still be open at 2.30. Alas it was not to be – so no lunch apart from a protein bar, and some rationing required on the water to last until the next morning

The 3km after Cardon seemed very hard – it was hot, the wind had dropped, so I was sweaty, thirsty and hungry as I climbed a steep hill. I stopped near Morro de Moralito at 420m for a coffee and a protein bar and stuck my sun hat on

After that the trail did take a while, but it was mostly easy walking, albeit with quite a lot of ascent and descent rolling along the ridgelines. The views out to both sides of the island were spectacular.

The sun started to noticeably drop at 5pm so I hoped I would make a good campsite by nightfall. There weren’t obvious pitches en route and I knew there was a shelter near Pajara – which would have the bonus of a table so I could cook sitting up (handy with an alcohol stove) and sleep out of the wind

I got to the shelter at 6pm and it was situated on a gravel road I had seen three cars drive down and it was only 1.5km from Pajara – so hardly off the beaten track. However I would be entirely hidden from view sleeping on the bench behind the big stone table and it was wonderfully sheltered. I needed the shelter as the winds were 30kph and it would be a bugger to pitch a tent. I reckon I ruined one hikers day though – as a young guy strolled to the shelter with a full pack and a bag of food, clearly hoping to stay, and he kept walking when he saw me (thank goodness, I don’t like strangers).

I had a lovely beef stew for dinner, a lot of rehydration salts and a hot chocolate and hit the hay at 7pm. Or I tried to. I couldn’t quite get comfy but I reckon I finally fell asleep at 10pm. Amusingly the rubbish bin in the shelter which I was happy to see (saves carrying rubbish), seemed like less of a good idea during the night as the loud rustling from said bin confirmed the existence of a rat or a mouse – but I wasn’t inclined the leave my sleeping bag to check. The stars were lovely and it is quite nice sleeping in the open air, although with 35k winds I was pretty happy to have the thick rock walls of the open sided shelter keeping the worst of the wind away

Day 2 to Degollada Marrubio via Ermita de Penitas and Gran Montana (28km and 1700m ascent)

I was awake at 6, but as the sun doesn’t come up until 7.35, I made a coffee and read the newspapers on my phone in my sleeping bag. I was surprised by a passerby and his dog out for a stroll around 7am – they didn’t see me fortunately as no doubt they weren’t expecting to.

I packed up my bed roll, finished my muesli and headed into Pajara, hoping that somewhere would be open to buy water. Fortune smiled on me and a tiny shop was open. And then I got even luckier as one of the cafes was open for coffee – and full of old Spanish men chatting with vim and vigour at 7.45 on a Sunday morning

From Pajara it was a couple of km gentle stroll along a dry river bed then a lovely manageable climb up through agave and tabaibal to the Degollada los Granadillos. The winds were fierce (40km an hour) and heading towards me verses aiding me up the mountain but it was still a nice walk. After the pass (degollada), it was an easy meander down to Vega de los Palmas, where I did a detour off the GR131 to head down to the Ermita de los Penitas (a worthy 3.5km detour). The damn was lovely and the views down the ravine to the tiny church were gorgeous.

After that I was in need of sustenance and more water. The first three establishments I passed were all closed, so I was delighted to see the Don Antonio open. The fed me like royalty and let me charge my battery – heaven

After lunch I took another detour off the trail – 7km and 500m of ascent to climb Gran Montana at 670m for fantastic 360 views across the island. The trail was straight up but I didn’t go too fast as I had a full tummy from lunch

The route detoured back close to Vega where I rejoined the GR131 and headed towards betancuria – stopping for a cup of tea at the sheltered and deserted Castillo de Lara (a recr

After that it was a hard grunt up to the degollada de marubio at 60where there was a trail shelter that was home for the night. The wind was up and the roof was made of branches, so I tried to see if I could get my tent up within the confines of the shelter for more cover but there was no room and the picnic tables were fixed firmly to the ground. And it was too windy to pitch outside. So I did what previous hikers had done and slept on the picnic table after a dinner of soup and a hot chocolate.

I prepared for a windy night – put my dry night clothes on, made sure the quilt was well secured to the Therm-a-Rest and slept with hat, gloves and my down jacket. What I wasn’t prepared for was lifting my head in the middle of the night and the pillow blowing down the mountain. I was well secured in the quilt so it took me a moment to get out of bed and start chasing. The pillow was restored and I weighted it down by putting it in a dry bag with my clothes to keep it from blowing away again

Day 3 to Sargento 29k and 975m of ascent

I woke up at 6 and stayed in my sleeping bag until the caffeine cravings forced me to move. After breakfast of muesli, I headed down the hill to the village of Betancuria. It is clearly a village for day trippers as there were tonnes of restaurants (all closed at 7.45 this Monday morning) and no hotels. With no coffee in sight, I continued up over the pass at Corral De Guise (past a bizarre statue) and down to Valle de St Innes to pick up supplies and have two excellent cafe con leches

From St Ines it was a hot flat walk through Llanos all the way to Tefia – mostly on roads. Not my favourite walking but at least there were few cars. I stopped at 11.30 for lunch after 15km at the trail shelter under the lovely Mt Bermeja – the highlight of the morning

Then it was a more entertaining 9km walk through Tefia to the town to Casillas de Angelos (a gr131 detour), which had nicer views back to the mountain ridge line I had left this morning

I arrived at Casillas at 13.35 to find all the restaurants closed and the minimart had shut at 13.30 and wouldn’t reopen until 6pm. Fortunately there was a gas station so I bought more water and had an icecrean

Leaving Casillas I headed up a grey rocky hill side with steep steps and rubbly ground to reach the degollada de La sargenta at 479m which had lovely views out of Tetir and a nice view of the trail shelter which was my home for the night 200m below

I arrived at the shelter earlier than I normally stop – at 4pm – but with the wind forecast I decided to stay here for the night as the next shelter was 20k away. I dried my sweaty clothes in the sun and pitched my tent (there was room in this shelter). I typically only pitch my tent 20 mins before sunset in case of passerbys (wild camping is illegal in Spain although tolerated apparently in some places). I didn’t think I would be disturbed so pitched at 5pm and then was promptly surprised by two trail runners charging by. I suspected they wouldn’t call the rangers on me, and was right, I had a very peaceful night with my head down by 8pm (which did lead to a 4am wake up but no matter)

Day 4 to La Oliva 31k and 1300m of ascent

After the 4am wake up and two coffees, I was packed and ready to go at the first inkling of light. It was a lovely stroll up the valley passing over the degollada de facay and then a good mountain path back down to tefia. Sadly I was too early for the cafe so I kept going to the village of La Matilla – where the cafe was also closed. I was fantasising about a bocadillo.

I kept going to Vallebron over an excellent rugged pass where the winds were so strong I was getting buffeted sideways but I managed to keep my feet and eventually made it down to Vallebron where the only shop was also closed

It was another 6k to Tindaya and the winds were howling and the air was very hazy (normally it is dust coming in the storms from Africa), and I was super excited after 22km to make it to bar Maria at noon for two Coke zeros, a large bottle of fizzy water, an omelette sandwich and some chicken wings (they had a very limited menu).

I headed back out into the storm and had hoped to climb Mt Tindaya but the sign said the path was closed. So I continued the 8km to La Oliva, walking on a sideways slant to the wind, keeping my glasses on to keep the dust out, and trying to keep my spirits up by singing cheesy songs at loud volume (no one can hear you in the wind, and I hadn’t seen anyone on the trails for days).

I finally made it to La oliva around 2.30 and decided to find a b&b as pitching a tent in the winds would have been near impossible. There was nothing available in town so I hopped on the hourly bus for the 30min ride to Corralejo and stayed at a package tour hotel (full of pensioners sitting on their balconies drinking and doing crosswords). The bath was excellent and I managed to get some fresh vegetables and fish from the local supermarket. All clean and I had a good night sleep (once I put ear plugs in to drown out the loud British teenagers next door)

Day 5 La oliva to Corralejo – 23km and 850m ascent

I was up early so rather than wait for the bus I took a cab back to La oliva and started walking. The ‘badlands’ or ‘mal pais’ area was stunning in the morning light and there were lots of good camp spots if I ever come back

I got to Lajares in under two hours and it was a bizarre surfer hippy town but not on a beach. I detoured off route for an excellent coffee and sat and listened tot wh aging French hippies around me complain about covid

Heading out of town I took the choice to detour off route to visit the Calderon hondo (a huge crater). The winds were up and there were moments as I walked around the crater that I was buffeted sideways and I wondered how embarrassed I would be if Canarian mountain rescue had to come bail me out if I fell in. This are always quite busy – the first time I had seen any people on the trails for days (the only time since ermita las penitas). It was worth the detour

From there the trail was essentially a flat gravel road into Corralejo, so I took another detour to go up Bayuyo (278m) which had stunning views down to the sea, but there were moments were I was less than comfortable on the ridge line with the high winds.

I stumbled down the hill hanging on to the sides to rejoin the gravel road. From there it was an uneventful few kilometres to town. I went to the beach to do my customary feet dip in the sea, to find a sign advising against bathing due to water contamination – blech. Instead I made do with rinsing my toes under the public shower (if there had been less of a crowd I might have had an actual shower)

I had a yummy lunch of squid, canary potatoes and melon, and then as I had time to kill took the bus to the airport (I do quite like buses, there are always interesting people on them). While not my favourite hike of the canaries it was worth doing. Taking the late flight back to Luton and then to work in the morning

Puerto del Rosario, February 9, 2022

Additional notes

The government has an excellent website that has maps gpx and trail notes to download. They have the shelters marked on each of the maps. I also used the cicerone guide to walking in Lanzarote and Fuerteventura.

Trails in Tenerife 2022

Aaaaah Covid, you have taught me to be infinitely flexible, responsive and on my toes when it comes to holiday plans. A positive covid test for my husband scuppered our Jordan holiday plans, and it didn’t make sense to go to Jordan by myself (as I had been before). Instead, with 48 hours to go before christmas, and an infectious husband to escape from, I am en route to my favourite winter hiking destination to discover some new trails. Hubby will join when he gets a negative lateral flow test. The trails of the week were…..

Anaga National Park

Roque de Bermejo loop from Chamorga (8km – 800m ascent)

This walk is at the top of the island, after a harrowing drive on windy narrow roads, with a mild heart attack every time a car comes the other way. The route is a variant of walk 3 in the Cicerone guide or PR TF 6/6.1

Chamorga was quiet at 5pm on xmas eve, and i wandered down the Barranco – passing a few tourists returning from the beach.

The tiny church in Chamorga
The view up the Barranco

After an hour….I was keeping an eye out for a place to pitch my tent and there was pretty much nowhere flat….., so I settled on pitching at the Casas Blanca – an abandoned house on the cliff overlooking the Roque and looking up to the Anaga lighthouse. It wasn’t particularly clean, but someone had clearly pitched in the ruins before as there was a clean flat bit looking out the window. I crossed my fingers that the other half of the roof wouldnt fall in on me during the night. The walls did keep the wind out, but the roof didn’t keep the rain off so it was good I had the tent up

My salubrious digs for the evening

It got dark at 6.15pm, so I cooked supper, read my book, and then fell asleep at 9pm after adjusting to the lighthouse flashing in my eyes (for a while I kept thinking someone was flashing a torch in my eyes). I woke up at 3am and the moon was so bright that it was like daylight.

The view from my tent at 3am

I was well rested by 6am, so I had a coffee overlooking the sea and a leisurely breakfast (M&S apple hot cross buns). It was light enough by 7.30 am to head out, so I wandered down to the sea and then back up a steep slog to the lighthouse.

Faro de Anaga

As I hit the ridge line above the lighthouse, the path was a little vertiginous (and i had to abbreviate the route as the cliff path to El Draguillo was closed. the views out over the Roques de Anaga were spectacular

I stopped for a leisurely coffee and enjoyed the views. From their it was a lovely hike up to the Casas Tafada along a ridgeline with spectacular views. And then a nice amble back to Chamorga.

I arrived in Chamorga at 10.30 on christmas day and was delighted the cafe/bar was open, and i treated myself to a luxurious morning tea of donuts, coffee and coke zero. And then I headed off to Afur on more windy roads

Barranco de Afur – Playa de Tamadiste 6km

I was feeling pretty lazy this afternoon after the mornings hike, so I just strolled down to the beach and back – a nice 2 hour loop.

The barranco de Afur is the most lovely barranco I have encountered in all of my hiking around the Canary Islands.   The barranco has water flowing through it all year round, and is green and lush  – very rare for the Canaries.   It was a busy-ish trail (I saw probably 20 people) but well marked and stunning vistas up the cliffs, amazing cacti, and better views to the coast around every corner

I arrived at the beach to find a couple of enthusiastic nudists engaged in some lively snogging…. So I faced the other way and enjoyed the spectacular views of the waves crashing down the coast.  

The wander back up the barranco was equally delightful, and I stopped for a coffee at the local bar on my way back.

I then headed into La Laguna for a shower and a meal not from a dehydrated pouch. 

Taganana to Tamadiste beach (12km – 700m ascent)

I came back to finish the broader loop from Afur to Taganana with the husband – so we also did the Taganana to Tamadiste beach section

The initial climb out of Taganana was a brutal calf warm up, but then the trail was just a lovely meandering undulating trail up and down the side of the cliff down the north coast.

It was 5km to the beach where we contemplated life and Steph misjudged a wave.

We wandered up and down the barranco for a little bit and then headed back to Taganana. The views were utterly stunning

Back in the quiet hamlet of Taganana – a light lunch of salad and croquettes. And then we drove down the coast to Benijo, which was overrun with cars and vans and half naked surfers.

Pico de Ingles to Valleseco – 8km – 900m descent

We hopped a taxi up to Pico del Ingles -so named as an ‘englishman’ (who was actually Austrian) fell to his death from the peak.   The views were stunning down to the capital on Tenerife and the sea.  This route is Walk 1 in the Cicerone Guide or PR TF 2

I headed down the trail through lovely lauresilva forests.  It was a Sunday and Boxing Day, and the locals were out in force. I passed several hiking groups (including a bunch of 70 year olds), and a lot of people in Santa hats.    

The photos down the barrancos don’t really do the views justice as it is all a bit hazy in the hot sun.  The path weaved in and out of the forest for the first half of the route, and then eventually weaved down into a barranco through spiky cacti.  

It was a lovely and easy stroll, and I arrived in Vallseco and caught the bus for the few km into the capital.  I found a place for lunch, but there were too many people in the capital for my liking so I headed back up to Laguna for an afternoon nap.  

Cruz del Carmen to Punta del Hidalgo – 11km, 1000m descent 200m ascent

This is one of the highest rated walks in the guidebook (map here pdf or walk 7 in the Cicerone). Husband had arrived for this bit – so we started at Cruz del Carmen after a 20 minute cab ride from La Laguna. I was pretty underwhelmed for the first 4km and wondering why we were doing this trail and not redoing the Valleseco route – which had amazing views. It was nice but all in the forest.

But about 1km before Chinamada the views opened and there were stunning views down the barranco to Punta del Hidalgo.

We stopped in Chinamada hoping for fluids but everything was closed so we continued down the side of the cliff where the path for much of the route was cut into the side of the cliff and there were some spectacular caves which would have been extraordinary places to pitch a tent for the evening (albeit no water)

The temperature kept climbing as we descended and it began to feel like we were cooking in a furnace. While the scenery was pretty green and lovely, there was no shade at all.

The route was relatively quiet but there were some bonkers people climbing up in bikinis from Punta – not sure how far they would have made it.

We hit the beach and a bunch of surfers after about 9km and then we had a hot and sweaty road walk until we arrived blessedly at an open shop and i knocked back 1 litre of cold drinks and cooled down. The bus was due in half an hour, so we headed back to La Laguna for an afternoon snack and a siesta

The Teno Region

Chinyero loop – 12km 380m ascent

Todays hike was a lovely 12km figure of eight loop around Montana Negra and the Chinyero Volcano (the youngest volcano in Tenerife having erupted 100 years ago).  Map here in pdf (as only the short version is in the Cicerone)  

We started from arenas negra carpark so the first half was all a gentle uphill and then back down again (always my preference).  And we started both loops on the north side, which was a good call as it was a lovely stroll in the forest to begin with and then the best views were saved for the second half.

It was a stunning walk with Tiede (Spain’s highest mountain) popping into view from time to time.  The walk was either on lovely pine needle paths through trees or across rugged lava fields.  

The contrasting colour of the baby pine trees with luminous green leaves was magical against the black volcanic rock and the blue sky.

It was an easy 3 hour stroll and we didn’t see many people until the last part.   When we left the carpark ours was the sole car, and there were 30 cars when we left

Feeling virtuous from our stroll we headed to the historic town of Garachico for squid and salt cod at an excellent local restaurant – Tasca de los Pinos

Callejon de Teno and Baracan summit loop

Starting from El Palmar, the ‘capital’ of Teno Rural Park, which is a small collection of houses around a very bizarre mountain that is like a pie with pieces cut out of it.

From the village, we schlepped up a big hill with a bunch of hikers, many of who overtook me on the way up, and then I over took them again when they stopped for a break. Its all about the average speed 🙂

After a meandering trail around the side of a hill, we arrived in Teno Alto – a tiny village famous for cheese. It was too early for lunch so we stopped for a coke and then restarted up the steep road.

We continued over some lovely terraced hillside with amazing views out over La Palma and an excellent cloud inversion onto the ridgeline of the Cumbre de Baracan where the views were spectacular

From the mirador of Baracan we dropped down the hill into El Palmar marvelling at the side of the pie. And then we headed to the excellent Bodega Patamero for chicken, cod and fried mushrooms.

And then it was a stunning drive home around the winding roads to Masca and back to Santiago del Teide. We got stuck behind a bus who had to keep reversing on the hairpin corners.

Tiede National Park

Volcan de Fasnia Loop – 8km

We headed up to the national park this morning, stopping at lots of the miradors to take photos.   Steph is still recovering from the rona, so we did a leisurely 8km stroll around Volcan de Fasnia (Walk 26 in the Cicerone guide or sendero 20 in the national park map).  The view of the observatories on the top of Izana were quite surreal.

The terrain meandered through white ash, red ash and then past the fabulous black Volcan de Fasnia.    Tiede popped into sight multiple times throughout the trail and it was just a nice wander in the sunny chilly air. 

Roques de Garcia – 4km

The national park is heaving during the day, but after about 5pm everyone vanishes back to the resorts and we had the place to ourselves. So it was the perfect time to meander around the Roques de Garcia, next to the Parador where we are staying (walk 33 in Cicerone Guide or sendero 3 in the national park map).

January 4, 2022

Additional notes

I used the Cicerone guide to hiking in Tenerife and also the Walk this Way Tenerife book (written by locals), both available on amazon

Trail notes – PDFs for most trails can be downloaded from the government website here with an overall map showing the location of the trails here. The Tiede park has its own trails – the map is here.

Where to stay – distances in Tenerife are long, so we were based in San Cristobal La Laguna (Hotel Gran La Laguna) for when visiting the Anaga, in Santiago del Tiede (La Casona del Patio) for the Teno, and then there is only one place to stay in the Tiede National Park (The Parador).

Getting around – we used a rental car but the buses are reliable and frequent

Gambolling around Gran Canaria

I have completed the GR131 (cross island trails) on four of the Canary Islands – Lanzarote, Tenerife, La Palma and La Gomera, still three more to go ……, and this weekend my buddy Lucy and I are headed to Gran Canaria to knock off no. 5.

Day 1 – Agaete to Tamadaba – 1200m up, 12km

We arrived in Gran Canaria at lunchtime after a long flight from London. We took a cab to Agaete to get started. There were 40kph winds but the sun was shining. The paths were lovely and relentlessly uphill, zigzagging up through the scrub and cactus on a rocky slope. The views down the sea on the South Coast were stunning.

The path meandered around some vertigo-ing paths along the sides of steep hills, and then up a very long and beautifully maintained set of mules paths to enter the forest at about 1100m. It is a kind of odd feeling climbing out of the desert to enter the pine forest, I am used to climbing through the forest and then out of the tree line.

The path got a little more gentle in the forest and we meandered through lovely trees, which seem to be recovering from the 2019 fire, and passed the Camping ground.

Eventually we hit the road and we arrived at our pick up spot for the taxi 1h45m early. We called Carlos the cabby and he said he was en route. Unfortunately we didn’t realise he was coming from San Mateo – 45 mins away. Unfortunate as we were in 40kph winds with zero shelter. It was bloody freezing. I have never been happier to see a taxi.

Waiting for Carlos

It was a 30 minute ride on windy mountain roads to arrive at the lovely and warm Parador de Cruz de Tejeda where Lucy and I both had long showers to thaw out. And then we hit the restaurant to load up on calories :-).

Day 2 – Tamadaba to Cruz de Tejeda – 1000m up, 15km

We had arranged for Carlos’s buddy to come and get us at the hotel and take us back to yesterday’s end point. She was due at 8am and we had prepaid for breakfast which started at 7.45, so Lucy and I made a valiant effort to eat a lot of bacon and down a lot of coffee and also added some extra treats to the backpacks for later (donuts omelette and banana for me, Frosties donuts and Nesquik for Lucy). It was tough to leave the hotel as it was pissing with rain with zero visibility

When we arrived back at Tamadaba after the cab ride, I was reminded of yesterday’s wind as was almost blown off my feet when I exited the cab. Lucy and I swiftly got under the trees and from there it was a pretty lovely up and down stroll through the trees to the mountain village of Artenara

We luckily found a cafe that was open and ducked in out of the wind for a quick cafe con leche

From artenara to Cruz it was an amazing hike up and along the edge of a steep cliff. The views over Roque Nubio were spectacular when the clouds lifted from time to time.

We made it up to about 1600m before the rain really started again in earnest and there were a few gusty moments hanging on to the path around the cliffs

We had some lovely fall foliage at the top of the hill. The most remarkable thing about these islands is how much variety there is in the terrain

We arrived back at the hotel in just under four hours, cold and wet and with no views. I persuaded Lucy to abandon our plan to walk further and instead enjoy a longer day 3 with the sun out (the forecast was good).

We had a lazy afternoon reading and watching mountaineering movies and then a light dinner (as we were still stuffed from last night.

Day 3 – Cruz de Tejeda to Ayagaures – 800m up, 28km

We were up at 6.45 and on the way out the door with headtorches on. It was freezing and there were still 40kph winds but we could see the views. The first grunt up to Morro de la Armonia more than woke us up, and we enjoyed the views out to Roque Nubio for about an hour and a half including fro the lovely Degollada Becerra – at that point the sun was hiting the top of the rock.

Freezing dawn start

From there we meandered through the forest down to Llanos de Garanon, past some keen campers in their tents and then we headed up to Degollada de Hornos at 1730m where we had a break for a coffee and breakfast (banana and hot cross buns for me, frosties for lucy).

Heading up to Degollada de Hornos
Degollada de Hornos

From the Degollada we transitioned from stunning high pine forests out into red rock wild west. The descent down to Cruz Grande was an epic well engineered mule path. There must have been a hiking outing, as after seeing noone all morning, we passed c. 100 people of all shapes, ages and sizes grunting up the hill and they were all super friendly and saying ‘buen camino’ as they walked past. It was a truly stunning walk down the hill with amazing views down to Tunte.

The mule path down to Cruz Grande
The roads near Tunte

We reached Tunte after 4 hours (the guide book said 6 so we were happy), and we stopped in the town square for a hot dog, a spanish omelette and some fish croquettes. I turned down (but kinda wanted) the local coffee – made with licor 43, coffee, milk and condensed milk – it looked yum