Date night in Tirana

The joys of Wizz and Luton

I have recently changed jobs which means my best weekend egress airport is now Luton, and given I am the chief holiday booker in my house, Luton airport it was, on Wizz air to head to Tirana. I arrived after a seamless 25 minute taxi ride from the office, cruised through security in ten minutes and then got some work done at Benugo. Hubby was less impressed with the airport choice, after a train, a shuttle (which they now charge for) and a rather less seamless transition through security. He was less than amused on arrival, with his mood somewhat restored by a hot salami sandwich. Mood was swiftly deflated again in the Wizz boarding queue, which was an example of budget airlines demonstrating their finest customer service, with a lot of shouting and tears as customers were ‘invited’ to contribute to airline revenues by paying an additional €25 for oversized baggage. Oh well, we got on the plane in the end

We were off to Albania as part of our commitment to a monthly date night somewhere interesting. We arrived in Tirana around 9pm and got a taxi to town (mercifully they are all fixed fares these days, as the Albanian cabbies are legendary), to the remarkable plaza hotel, a modernist tower in downtown Tirana. It’s been a long time since I have seen a black toilet and bidet! After a late supper and some tea we retired for the evening

The old town and old men

Woken by the clock tower chiming 7am, even though it was 6am, and eventually managed to surface around 10am to a glorious sunny day. We went for an extended stroll around downtown hitting off the major ‘sites’, Skanderberg square, the National Gallery, the Opera house, the Orthodox Church, the Friendship monument and Et hem Bej mosque (being renovated).

Crossing the river to see Hoxha’s pyramid – originally a museum about the legacy of the long-time leader of Communist Albania (41 years), who had died three years before it was built. The structure was co-designed by Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera Hoxha, an architect and when built, the Pyramid was said to be the most expensive individual structure ever constructed in Albania

Recrossing the river to see the Cathedral and the enormous Namazgjah mosque (under construction, and it will be the biggest mosque in the Balkans when built), before grabbing a coffee in a cafe populated by ancient Albanian men in excellent hats, right next to parliament. Hubby was sure they were mafioso. 

Bunk’art – totally bunkers

Taxied to Bunkart – an extraordinary museum complex housed in a bunker that was built to protect Hoxha from the Russians and Americans. Apparently during his rein he built over 110,000 bunkers, one for every 11 Albanians. It is now a wonderfully restored museum to the era, and we had it almost to ourselves. It is pretty eerie wandering through Hoxha’s bunker apartment, the filtering mechanisms for tear gas and long concrete hallways.

Dajtit express to the hills

Next stop the hills, which surround Tirana majestically. The Dajtit express is located right next door to Bunk’art, so we took the cable car 15 minutes up the mountain for a late lunch at the Ballkoni Dajtit – excellent bean stew, burek and lamb chops. The view was amazing and the evidence of autumn becomes more apparent with altitude, the leaves were lovely, like the side of the range was on fire. 

We meandered around the hilltops and then took the cable car back to town, for another stroll around town.

Traditional Albanian fare

We then went to the famous Oda for dinner – for lambs intestines (hubby only), Fergese (cheese and peppers), Stuffed eggplant, yogurt, pickled vegetables, Lakror (spinach pie), and excellent scone like bread. We probably had enough food for four people for the princely sum of €20

More bunkers

Next morning, a slow Sunday start and a reprise with Bunk’art 2, the second installation of bunkart but in the central city. It was ok, but the first one was better. It was a useful insight into the secret police and how they ruled with absolute fear during Hoxha’s reign. 

Arty farty at the National Art Gallery
Onwards to the National Art gallery where we had been hoping to see the permanent collection which has some spectacular examples of communist propaganda. Unfortunately, the collection was closed for refurbishment, so instead, we saw a mixed media installation by Adrian Paci. I normally don’t like video installations, but there was a surprisingly hypnotic video about a marble pillar being made on a ship that was utterly transfixing and hubby and I watched it for 20 minutes.

Blloku – the communist posh quarter
Art satiated we strolled around the Blloku, the historical residences of the communist party leaders, admiring the unique graffiti, and saw Hoxha’s original residence, which was very similar to a Californian bungalow. 

Communist architecture
Strolling further past the National Congress, and the presidential palace, further past mother Theresa square. Mother Theresa is an Albanian hero (the airport is named after her), but I am not a huge fan given her views on contraception. 


Albanian Gastronomy at Mullixhui !

We eventually ended up at our lunch destination, an Albanian gastronomical experience – Mullixhiu, opened by a local who had trained at Le Gavroche and Noma. The restaurant was a study in rustic chic. Hubby valiantly over-ordered, and we had a very robust lunch of soup, dark bread so hard it would knock you out if someone threw it at you, trout, baby goat and coffee. The service was simultaneously ‘two soups’ haphazard, but also the best we had in Tirana. Gastronomy isn’t expensive in Albania, a seriously large lunch cost is €40.

More strolling ensued, and then a cheeky afternoon nap before the 6.20pm flight back to Gatwick.

Additional notes

  • Cheap easy flights with Wizz and BA from London
  • Stay at the plaza – a steal at €110 per night
  • We didn’t eat anywhere amazing, but everyone recommends Oda, Ballkoni Dajtit and Mullixhui
  • Fixed price taxis from the airport €20 to town

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