Kungsleden day 10 – seeing what the day brings

I didn’t really have much of a plan today, apart from seeing what the day bought me….. And what a day it was!

I set off up the hill from Teusajaure alongside the waterfall and had a lovely 6k walk across a bald on the mist. After a while I came to a reindeer fence and I love the practical way these things work so you can decide at which height you want to go through – you just pull aside the poles to get through and put them back


After 9k and seeing no one, I passed kaitamare hut which is at the end of another lovely lake. 

And from their I headed up the valley alongside a fantastic river that started braiding up the Singi valley. 

 Around 10.30 I started passing my first hikers coming from the other direction and a couple of German ladies told me the weather forecast tomorrow was looking good so I thought I would head to kebnekaise to see if I could summit the mountain (this is about a 40k detour from the Kungsleden). It was a good call as although the weather wasn’t brilliant it was mostly dry and there were even a few patches of blue in the sky. 

 The walk down the valley to kebnekaise was stunning with steep cliffs towering over the laddjujohka river on both sides. Even if I don’t make the summit this was a stunning and worthwhile detour

The only downside is that this part of the trail is a highway and I passed about 60 people all heading to the mountain station at kebnekaise. 

 When I arrived in the rain I decided to ask for a bed as there weren’t great tent pitches and there were tents everywhere. I had been warned by hikers all up and down the trail that this place was a zoo. The gentleman at reception kindly confirmed they did have beds – I could sleep on a mattress on the floor in the sauna changing room which would be available after 9pm, and for the small cost of £75. Highway robbery. For £20 I got to pitch my tent on a tiny scrap of dirt (at least having a small tent means it is easy to find a pitch) and I got to have a shower, sauna and sit inside the kitchen until 9pm to warm up and charge my phone

The sole redeeming feature of this place is they sell pretty good cinnamon buns so I had three. I am planning on taking my revenge on them by demolishing the breakfast buffet tomorrow 🙂

Distance covered = 34k from teusajaurestugorna to kebnekaise fjallstation 

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