So, today was a happy day! The gr5 trail intersects with the deservedly famous TMB trail for the duration of my day. So while I had to endure lots of sunburnt people walking slowly with heavy packs, they had conveniently left me lots of tracks to follow through the snow!!!
I walked from Les Houches to the lovely village of Contamines, where I stopped to buy crampons and sunglasses. The guidebook said it was a six hour walk, but I managed it in 3.5. I also had two coffees as no one was up when I left Les Houches at 6am.
And then continued up the river to start the climb up to the Col du Bonhomme. It is a lovely easy climb for most of the day passing multiple refuges selling cake. As we got up to 2000m, the snow was back.
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There were about 50 or so hikers making the traverse, a stark contrast to my lonesome traverse yesterday. Some had amusing clothing choices – the French (and I) were in shorts and tshirts, but there were about 30 Chinese hikers who were covered from head to toe, including buffs on their faces! I asked the guide what that was about and apparently no one wanted a tan!!!
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I stopped early today after a mere 7 hours on my feet as my next leg is over the exposed Crete de Gittes, and there was a thunderstorm forecast for this afternoon. So am enjoying the delights of a mixed dorm in the refuge to Col du croix du bonhomme at 2450metres.
The Crete de Gittes
The plans are shifting for the next few days as I had originally intended to climb multiple passes higher than 2200 metres and these are now all snowed in and inadvisable for a lone hiker (especially one who doesn’t understand snow and is scared of heights). I still plan to walk to the Mediterranean, it just might require a few days pounding the tarmac. I am treating this as an exercise in flexibility!
Distance travelled = 32km
Ascent/descent = 2316/894
Coffees = 4
Times fell on butt = zero!!! (Though I almost fell up the stairs to the refuge)
No. of hikers overtaken ascending from Contamines to the Col = 78
**note I am now on day 6 but have very limited 3G, will upload photos and additional posts when I reach civilisation 🙂
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